Getting around Chennai

December to February, without much argument. Those months are dry and sit around 25 to 29°C, and December is also the Margazhi season, when the city fills with Carnatic music and Bharatanatyam concerts in dozens of sabhas, most of them cheap or free. March to June is genuinely difficult — May regularly passes 40°C with high humidity — and the north-east monsoon brings heavy rain and occasional flooding from October to early December.

The metro is clean, cheap and air-conditioned, and its two lines reach the airport, Central and Egmore stations, High Court and the western suburbs; Chennai Metro Rail offers a 20 per cent discounted fare and issues the Singara Chennai travel card. Suburban trains run down the coast towards Mylapore and beyond. Autorickshaws are everywhere and the ride-hailing apps are easier than negotiating. For Mahabalipuram, hire a car for the day or take a bus from Koyambedu.

Shoes come off before you enter any temple precinct, not just the building, and there is usually a stand at the gate. Shoulders and knees covered is expected, and at some Tamil temples men remove their shirts to enter the inner shrine. Non-Hindus may walk the outer precincts at Kapaleeshwarar but not enter the sanctum. Photography inside is generally not allowed. Temples close for several hours in the middle of the day, typically about 12:00 to 16:00, which shapes the plan above.

No, and this is not over-caution. Marina Beach and Elliot's Beach both have strong rip currents and a steep shelf, there are no lifeguards on most of the shore, and people drown every year. The beaches are for walking, sitting and eating in the evening, which is exactly what the city uses them for. If you want to swim, the resort hotels south of the city along the East Coast Road have pools and supervised stretches of beach.