
Hawa Mahal
Sawai Pratap Singh had it built in 1799 at the edge of the zenana so that the women of the household could watch the processions on the bazaar below without being seen from the street, and what Lal Chand Ustad gave him was not a palace but a screen: five storeys of pink and red sandstone pierced by 953 small windows, each with its own carved canopy, arranged in tiers that narrow towards the top into the shape of Krishna's crown. Behind the honeycomb there is almost nothing, a single room deep in places, reached by ramps rather than stairs because the palanquins had to go up, and the breeze that gave the building its name still comes through the lattice on the hottest afternoon. The east face catches the first sun, which is why every photograph of Jaipur is taken at seven in the morning from the roof of a café on the far side of the road.














