
Notre-Dame de la Garde
The Bonne Mère, the basilica that Marseille looks up to, stands on a 150-metre limestone spur south of the port, a striped Romano-Byzantine church of 1853 to 1864 on top of a 16th-century fort, topped by a 11-metre gilded statue of the Virgin and child that sailors steer by; inside, the mosaics glitter and the walls hang with ex-votos, model ships, paintings of shipwrecks, football shirts and plaques from the survivors of two centuries of Marseille's disasters, and outside, the terrace gives the whole city, the islands and the calanques in one turn. The sanctuary is open every day from 7:00 to 18:00 and is free; the small museum of the basilica's history is open 9:00 to 17:00. Go first thing, before the coaches and the heat.
















